Thursday, March 16, 2017

27 Things I Learned Through Hitchhiking

Cringey and very uncandid selfie to demonstrate how joyous and kick-ass hitchhiking can be. This is Tombstone National Park, about halfway up the Yukon (the furthest I went north before heading west into Alaska).


After having been back in Ontario for the past six and a half months, one of the things that regularly strikes me is how ordered, structured, and organized everyone is. I think this influences the common negative assumptions about hitchhiking. That bothers me ever so slightly because hitchhiking is probably one of the most worthwhile decisions I’ve ever made. The things I learned about people in general as well as myself were astonishing. Traveling through Alaska and the Yukon was an incredible experience and the people I met through hitchhiking were the primary part of this. I also think many of the negatives about hitchhiking are highly overrated. Yes, it is dangerous to hitchhike, especially as a lone woman, but it is 100% manageable and the negative associations with it cause more harm than good.
Dawn picked me up outside of Prince George. We visited her friend's family as they were drying and smoking fish. A fascinating, unforgettable experience.

In a later post, I’d love to tell some of the incredible stories of people that I met through hitchhiking. For now, here is a list of things that I experienced and learned while hitchhiking:

1.     Most people are good people. Full stop. If you assume the worst, you close yourself off from the incredible experiences that might happen.
2.  If people are gonna be worried about you, be considerate and reassure them that you're safe and well-prepared. This could mean texting people when you have service, updating Facebook, whatever. Let people know how "not dead" you are. (This could also mean buying a tarp you don't really want in the presence of a concerned friend only to return it once you're on your own... the point is they feel better thinking you have a tarp)
Several weeks after returning my tarp (I mean c'mon, it was expensive) it started raining. This is my sketchy tarp substitute over a very-much-not-waterproof tent. Garbage bags work great for the cheapos.

3.     It really is the journey that is more important than the destination. The people who you get to talk to when they pick you up can be enchanting and all have incredible stories and life experience to share. Hitchhiking is FAR more than just a means to get from one place to another – it is the adventure in itself.
4.     Keep an open-ended schedule - the people you meet can change it in the most wonderful ways. The most meaningful and memorable experiences I had while hitchhiking were not planned.
While originally planning to hitchhike back down the coast, one of the women who picked me up urged me to take the ferry, claiming I really couldn't miss the Inside Passage. She was 100% right. This was in Haines, Alaska, where I boarded the ferry.

There were lawn chairs up in the solarium of the ferry where people would lay their mats and sleeping bags. Sleeping outside while smelling the salty ocean air late at night surrounded by around 30 other campers is a pretty friggin great experience. Fun fact: I survived this entire 3-day ferry ride on primarily free peanut butter and honey packets.

5.     Know when to accept a dinner/sleeping invitation. Most people who offer are genuine and sweet, just wanting to offer something to you. Some are not. If you can’t tell who’s who, probably don’t go with them.
While managing a tiny campfire with wet wood to cook your little can of beans can be a memory in itself, sometimes it's nice to accept a dinner invitation.

6.     Wear colourful clothes. Actually, give a fair bit of thought into what you wear. People only pick you up if they trust you from a split-second assessment as they see you on the road. Modest but clearly female bright-coloured clothing increased people’s trust of me. A giant black raincoat definitely did not.
Colourful clothing helps people to trust you, like these sweethearts did.


7.     
Bear or pepper spray is enough. 99% chance you’ll never use it. On the rando chance you need to, have it with you. Don’t lug around a massive stick that will only be heavy and intimidate people out of giving you a ride.
The super friendly dudes in the previous photo left me this lovely hand-carved walking stick. Unfortunately, it was massive and heavy - I was not about to lug that thing around. Alas this photo is the only memory I have left of the delightful but hindersome gift.

8.     You learn your own story by rehashing it with every person. This was actually fascinating. Almost everyone you meet wants to know who you are and why you’re hitchhiking (partially to determine whether or not they should drop you right off again). The first couple times, I really just threw out random thoughts about why I was hitchhiking, who I am, what I was doing, etc. By the end, I had gone over this so many times that I realized exactly who I was telling people I am. This was astonishing in discovering who I see myself as.
9.     Know where you are (both mentally and on a physical paper map). I’m bad for this one, but became pretty adept at it through the experience. Huge shout-out to my crew boss who made sure I had lots of hardcopy paper maps before she dropped me off.
This hike was one where needing that map was utterly crucial as I nearly wound up stranded on a random mountainside in the Yukon during bear season. I made it up though, saw this FRIGGIN GORGEOUS VIEW OF DAWSON, and managed to hitch a ride back down.
10.     Ask questions. This is how you get to know people. Sometimes riding in silence is great and exactly what both you and the driver need and want, but asking questions is still critical. Safety is one thing and getting to know the driver through questions certainly helps with that, but the people you’re driving with could answer with anything and that’s the best part.
11.  Have something to offer (ie. Clif bars). People are being nice when they pick you up, so be nice back and offer something to them. I just happened to have a shitload of Clif bars in the top pocket of my backpack.
12.  Take advice but re-assure them that you know what you’re doing. Especially if you’re a woman because people doubt your awareness more often. Sometimes people, especially locals, often have the best suggestions about where to go and how to get around - so listen closely. That being said, people who are highly self-assured (as people who pick up hitchhikers can often be) can sometimes doubt whether you know what you’re doing, especially if you’re a young female hitchhiker. Don’t let people act all paternalistic regardless of their positive intentions; you know exactly what you’re doing. The correct answer to “Hun, are you sure you’re gonna be okay?” is yes. Yes, you are going to be just fine.
Grizzly bear family! An extremely sweet but slightly "parenty" couple informed me I could find grizzly bears here and, alas, here they were. This couple was wonderful, but there were many times where I needed to assure them that I was perfectly fine on my own and, yes, my parents knew exactly what I was doing (not that it was any of their business).
13.   Wealth makes absolutely no difference as people, but a huge difference in assumptiveness. Granted, this is a pretty big generalization in itself, but it’s my experience. Wealthier people and fancier cars = they think you are broke, have no parents, need food, should feel completely honoured that they’re giving you a ride, etc. Average cars with average people in them = they think you’re normal, equal, doing just fine, a pal giving another pal a ride.
14.   People will make assumptions about you - squash those assumptions. Directly related to the previous point.

15.   Be open. You have no idea just how differently people think and do things just within your own country.
16.   Literally anyone will pick you up and that’s the intriguing part of it. Some people are utter sweethearts, some people are super open-minded, some people are racist, some people are sexist, some people just need someone to keep them awake while they drive, some people don’t want to talk, some people only want to talk, some people are extremely curious about you, some people just want to tell you about themselves, some people just want to tell you about the super gorgeous third cottage they bought, some people are just making their way down to the next festival shift they’re working. Literally anyone.
Willie and I made our way up over 600km from BC Hwy 16 up to the Alaska highway. As he was a retired miner, we spent the night at a working jade mine where he'd previously worked. The next morning, he took me on a tour of the giant, active jade mine. Not an experience one gets to see every day. He was definitely one of the sweethearts.

17.  The dangers are over-rated. You have a hell of a lot of control when you’re in that car. The driver needs to focus on driving; you can focus on anything and everything.
18.   People will think you do drugs. Probs best not to if you're going over a border. 
19.   You will be told how brave and strong you are. Cuz fuck yeah you are.

Reaching the top of Midnight Dome, where it felt like all of the Yukon was visible.
20.  People will see you idealistically. People have talked to me as though I’m some free-spirited, world-travelling, whimsical, carpe-diem-driven adventure-seeker, almost as though I’m some dream of theirs. It’s a weird feeling but sure, do whatever you want with it.
21.   Pick your hitchhiking spots wisely. This should be obvious but I don’t drive, so it really took me a while to clue in. Waddya know, people don’t want to stop in a place where slowing down will screw up every other vehicle on the road and possibly kill someone.
22.   People will ask “what do your parents think about this?” None of their business, regardless of how old you look. I would just respond politely that my parents were concerned but I’m keeping in regular contact with them. People often have perfectly fine intentions with this question, but it’s super frustrating that they probably wouldn’t ask a dude this question and certainly not an older person.
Did my parents actually know I was taking shots containing an actual pickled human toe? No, they did not. But the Sourtoe Cocktail was not to be missed. The pickled toe on the plate of salt in this photo is about to be placed in the shot glass in front of me.

23.  Accept hitchhiking advice from people who have actually hitchhiked. Hitchwiki.org or people/friends who have hitchhiked in the past are the places to go for advice. NOT friends or family or even rides who, while they may have lovely intentions, have no idea what they’re talking about. There are several things that rational and caring people can assume about hitchhiking and offer as advice but in reality does nothing. In fact, bad advice can seriously hinder the process.
My campsite directly beside the Yukon River. It was a fellow hitchhiker who told me about this campground. Local people and fellow/former hitchhikers are the primary people to be taking advice from.
24.  Always talk to the driver briefly before putting anything (either yourself or your stuff) into the vehicle. You can get a pretty clear idea of the driver from a quick 20-second conversation.
25.  DON’T HESITATE to turn down a ride if you get an uncomfortable feeling about the driver. Trust your instincts. If it feels unsafe, it probably is. You are under no obligation to enter any vehicle just because they stop.

Occasionally it's best to turn down a ride and spend a lil' bit longer on the side of the road. This type of scene was my view for many an hour. Note the awesome and deliberately chosen highway sign.

26.  Don’t let people control your trip - this is your trip and you should always be in control of it.
27. As you do it more often, it gets a lot easier and certain things come more naturally. It's a miracle for gaining self-confidence.

While two years ago, the idea of hitchhiking through British Columbia, the Yukon, and Alaska would have seemed kinda inconceivable and absurd, the decision to do it was one of the most rewarding decisions I've made. It was an astonishing learning experience. While the area in itself is gorgeous and full of history, the experiences of hitchhiking were and still are 90% of the reason for the success of this trip.

Ironically, I'm going to finish this blog post with a picture of the exquisite sunset taken from the ferry (somewhere around Juneau?) rather than with one of the incredible people I met while hitchhiking.


PS - don't forget about the Palestine delegation in which I am participating this August! Around $200 has been raised so far - lots more to go! To donate, go to http://cpt.org/donate and follow the steps to donate. Toward the end of the process, there will be a box that says "donation inspired by". Be sure to enter my name in this section to ensure that the donation goes to this delegation.

Peace and love, friends!