Monday, January 29, 2018

Tears are Slimy in Shanghai

A birthday cake pour moi! Xie-xie, my dears
Poor air quality can be so poetic!

Last week was a little dramatic so the chips post will have to wait.

1. I forced a child to eat vegetables.

These kids do not eat vegetables – only meat. Since part of our role is to encourage a healthy lifestyle, we took some time as a class to extract as many tasty veggie ideas from these kids as we could. Every suggestion we made was met with looks of disgust from the students. Pretty sure it’s more the idea of vegetables that disgusts them than the actual vegetables. But like… these kids are 13 and 15 – they’re too old for this utter abhorrence of anything healthy. After a solid 20 minutes, our list consisted of bamboo shoots and potatoes. What a list. We’re still working on it.

We asked if they wanted to live healthily and everyone answered “yes”. Then we asked if they think vegetables are healthy and they all responded “yes”. Finally, we asked if therefore we should eat more vegetables… and there was silence. Until the relatively quiet older girl spoke up, “Vegetables aren’t healthy if you eat 5 tonnes of them though”. Touche, my dear, touche. We’ll try not to go that far.

We organized a student scavenger hunt where one of the requirements was taking a photo smiling with a cabbage... it was beautifully hilarious


At dinner, we put a small pile of greens on everyone’s plate. One boy tried to hide them under a pile of finished chicken wings. One nudge of my chopsticks unearthed the sad, neglected pile of greens. Guiltily, he looked at me pleadingly. I shook my head and raised my arm to block the kitchen exit. In one swoop, he dumped the whole pile in his mouth, wincing and gagging all the way. He left the kitchen with half of it sticking out of his mouth and chewing very… very slowly. It took several more moments for him to swallow.

Is this what parenting feels like? Why are kids so weird?


2. Body adjustments are the worst.

Indigestion as a result of a new diet is shitty enough, but pair that with menstrual cramps and a self-imposed heat stroke. I’d wake up freezing in the winter cold but my head feverish (our low-power heater sat directly above my head), with my uterus clamming up and my ass burning. That Saturday I literally did not leave my bed.

Ayi, essentially our hired grandmother, came into Melissa and my room regularly, trying to figure out what the hell was wrong with me. After I gestured to my groin and deliberately groaned loudly, she nodded vigorously and left the room. She came back with a mysterious black drink and Melissa, who translated that it was some sort of Chinese medicine.

VERY gingery, VERY sugary, VERY black, VERY mysterious

I don’t know how effective the mysterious black drink was, but it was sure exciting. Luckily, these things pass and sleeping directions can be changed.

Fun fact: all the dust in the air coagulates in your eyes here, resulting in gooey “sleep” build-up in your eyes several times per day, rather than just in the morning. Also, tears are not completely liquid. They’re sticky and thicker than regular tears, leaving a strange sticky residue on your skin.

3. Hella pressure

For several days, the amount of pressure on me was a little ridiculous and I didn’t handle it well – I essentially stopped eating for a while. In charge of scheduling the teaching team yet having little-to-no material prepared among the teaching team (and thus little to schedule) but needing 8 hours per day of material, with one fellow teacher refusing to help or teach as well as encouraging the kids to be super unmanageable, I got a little stressed out. Overall teacher morale was low, expectations on us were rising, rules were not being enforced, and we had zero solid plans for the next 8 months. Having fallen into the role of “head teacher” by default of being the only one taking the job seriously, I started internally freaking out.

Not as stressful when it's just one student - more of a conversation.

 Finally, Ayi enlisted Vera, one of the company office workers, to figure out why I wasn’t eating her food. Luckily, Vera is a sweetheart and confiding in her wasn’t difficult. Things got better after that. I went into my boss’ office and ranted while holding back tears. He took my concerns seriously – work was distributed more clearly, pressure was taken off me, and we were able to speak openly. I think that may have been what bothered me most – having very different perceptions with different people and communicating different things all around.

Either away, I’m eating again and Ayi looks very pleased with this.

4. Abandoned buildings

Yesterday, the three of us teachers took a long-needed breath of semi-fresh air and left “campus” for half the day. Trying to find a library, we ended up in this massive semi-abandoned “Science and Technology Library” with three floors of unlocked offices and a rooftop balcony. It was built in an extremely modern, circular style, with a giant indoor “courtyard” in the middle and a high glass ceiling. Wandering through the dust-covered conference rooms, copier rooms, and ping pong tables, the building felt like an eerie mesh of the past and present. We eventually found the front door again, where a security guard suddenly appeared and proceeded to shoo us out.

Very round, bright, and "futuristic"... yet not a soul in sight
More mysteriously abandoned building from the future...

We finally took a subway to the Shanghai Library (aka the largest library I’ve ever been in). While we did visit the “Chinese Ancient Books” section, which was interesting, we also arrived half an hour before it closed.

You can only see half of the library in this photo - the other half is to the right and just as tall as this part. Huuuuge bloody library


Apparently this is ancient Chinese writing
A statue of some Chinese scholar in the snow?


A plus side of the excursion: I finally tried a “tea egg”. These hard-boiled eggs are soaked in some type of tea and sold on the street for about 30 cents. It sort of just tasted like… an egg. With a tiny bit of tea flavour on the outside. A little plain, but definitely worth the whole 30 cents.

Tea eggs in the street



I think cabbages are flowers here? Literally everywhere

This photo is so embarrassing that I had to post it. I went to a cafe to write, only to notice after ordering how hipster and posh and gag-worthy it all looked. It was too basic to NOT photograph
Shanghai had snow!!! An passable attempt at a snowman


5. Making children exercise
 Part of the “health” aspect of this program is physical fitness. You do not know lazy until you take a couple 13-year-old boys to the gym. Our ever-committed female student was extremely impressive on the treadmills, but the boys would not put their phones down. Walking as slow as we’d allow (5km/hour), they walked with heads down, staring straight at the phones the whole time.

But they’re still great. Our dedicated, hard-working, philosophical 15-year-old girl and 2 sassy, lazy-ass 13-year-old boys.

A preferable form of exercise... get them all on skates!

 
Found in a random store... very curious about how this works

Currently on a quest to find some sort of alternative, comfortable, relaxed cafĂ© or lounge. In a city this big, surely there has to be somewhere that doesn’t revolve around money, consumerism, fast fashion, designers, and everything else I loathe. Sometimes I forget the sheer size of this city – I cross a 12-lane highway just to get to the subway almost every day. Of 24 million individual human beings, I am certain some have the same interests as me – I just have to find them and figure out where they congregate.
Every day, mate, every day


Quote of the Week:

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Upon telling the boys to stop talking during a test, one responds “We don’t talk; we just discuss.” We’re still unsure what he was trying to say.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

Hello Shanghai

Shanghai skyline

You know that rushing feeling you get when it starts to dawn on you just how unprepared and unqualified you are? That raging gush of “hooo-ly shit I am in way over my head”? Three undergraduate students were just recruited as full-time teachers for the children of some Chinese millionaires who are leaving to study at Canadian private schools next year. These three undergrads were not given a structure/curriculum and told to “develop it as you go”. Teaching lessons, assigning projects, developing/administering/marking tests and evaluations, etc. They are also essentially residence dons for the kids, as they live in the same apartment and are expected to both enforce rules and encourage community. The three of us deeply reacted with “I am in no way qualified for this!”


Fahim and I working with a student


Yet we are handling it surprisingly well… 
Fahim and the side of Melissa's head.

In other news, Shanghai is basically an abundance of people, buildings, “things”, and a tiny bit of air squeezed in between the dust particles.

A plus side to that whole air quality thing, if you ignore how horribly detrimental it is to our environment, the smog can create a gorgeous “smoky” ambiance in some photos. Not to mention that “morning glow” it creates. If you pretend it’s natural, it’s actually quite lovely.
Like the buildings so tall they magically disappear into the smog
Here are some pics of our week:

This is a dating site. Parents come to this park with their child's name and information on an umbrella, planning to match them with someone else's kid.

All the prospective mummies and daddies

Cute alleyways with laundry hanging overhead. The back of Melissa's head beside a smiling Fahim - this will be a recurring theme.


A book vending machine!! I swear, China's way ahead of us



Some communists outside the birthplace of China's Communist Party.


Funky money I'm slowly getting used to



The largest Starbucks in the world (and a lineup over two hours)

Also, our ayi is the sweetest human being (and her food is delicious). It’s the most satisfying feeling to awkwardly squeak out a “xie-xie” (thank-you) and watch Ayi grin ecstatically/enthusiastically at my lame-ass attempt at Mandarin.

Planned future posts:
-       Five Shanghai Breakfasts with Ayi
-       A Definitive Ranking of Shanghai’s Chip Flavours

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