Sunday, March 11, 2018

Hello Hanoi: Solo Backpacking Vietnam

When one co-working is with family and the other is lazy, you just end up doing things yourself

            
This trip began in the most tumultuous, frustrating way a trip can. My flight was leaving at 4:00pm and I live at most 3 hours away (by subway) from the Pudong airport. Since I'd been having trouble checking in online, I wanted to give myself plenty of time to figure it out once I arrived. I left at 10:00am, thinking I that would leave loads of time to spare. Arriving at the Pudong airport just after noon (the subway had gone rather quickly), I couldn't find any flights listed leaving for Hanoi. Frantically searching through my emails to find the ticket receipt, I saw the tiny subscript "Hongqiao International Airport". My heart dropped. Almost every international flight leaving from the Pudong airport. However, since I first had a layover in Nanning, China, it was considered a domestic flight. Therefore my flight was leaving from the Hongqiao airport ... literally on the opposite side of Shanghai and TEN MINUTES FROM MY APARTMENT. 

Here's a little map to show just how big of a mistake it was.

I had just taken a 3-hour subway ride AWAY from the airport I needed to be at. Extremely frustrated and panicked about both the mistake and the time needed to get to the Hongqiao airport now, I jumped onto the more expensive Maglev Train and cut an hour off the journey. I made it to the Hongqiao airport around 3:00 and found my line-up only to realize just how long it was. Extremely stressed out, I double checked everything I had and continued attempting (unsuccessfully) to complete the online check-in. Once I finally got to the ticket desk (3:30), she entered my passport information and frowned at the screen. I could feel my heart racing fast again, until she asked if I could show her my visa letter for Vietnam. Thank god that's all it was.

Ticket in hand, I raced through security (it's surprisingly efficient in China) and made the flight (5 minutes to spare).

-       Yes, it was a dumb mistake, but at least I didn't paying a taxi 200RMB ($40) to get from terminal 1 to terminal 2 instead of taking the actual indoor hallway connecting them (cough...Fahim).

Arriving in Hanoi around 1am, I discovered that the airport pick-up arranged wasn't operating because of Tet (Vietnamese New Year). Frustrated, I found the private airport busses still operating and bartered one to take me to my hostel for around 100 000VND (about $5).

When I woke up the next morning, I was in Hanoi!!!!


Hanoi's famous egg coffee, a thick Vietnamese version of a cappuccino


Decorated for Tet, the Vietnamese New Year, featuring the Flag Tower in the background



Spring begins in February!


Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, a tribute to their president after their War of Independence (aka the Vietnam War)


These grapefruit-like fruits were tied to small shrubs... I'm still not entirely sure what it means
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More pretty flowers


So many of the evening food stands, markets, motorcycles, and general atmosphere reminded me of Thailand. It left such a bittersweet pang of nostalgia in my heart.


A small night-time food stand offering delicious Vietnamese sandwiches

I took a trekking trip up into the mountains in Northern Vietnam. Arriving a day early, I took time to explore the town of Sapa. These market women reminded me so strongly of Thailand.


Bags, wallets, pants, and other handmade items sold on the streetside

The next morning, myself and four other trekkers met our guide, Phuong Mai, for a 2-day trek and homestay through the mountains.
Passing buffalo along the streams


Our trekking group as well as a whole entourage of folks who came along with us, plus a nice finger in the lens.



It. Was. So. Gorgeous.



Just an average hike y'know



There were also many narrow iron bridges connecting the high-up villages

Arriving at our homestay for the night, we took time to explore the river



In the background, waterfall comes down the mountain to meet the 6 houses that make up Phuong Mai's village, where we stayed

A makeshift fence


Our guide, Phuong Mai, walks down the path in front of us




Phuong Mai bought a puppy from a farmer and we carried it the whole way down the mountain
Back in Hanoi, I had two more days to explore and experience before catching a plane back to Shanghai to start work again. The first day, I took time to explore the city, booking a short day-tour the following day of Ha Long Bay.

Monument inside the Vietnamese Women's Museum.
The Vietnamese Women's Museum is likely the most impressive museums I've ever been. Rather than focusing on wars and death as many other museums do, this one focused on life, birth, general daily life, and the power/strength a woman has in society in general. 


Portraits of elderly women, designed to show the beauty of age



I also took a short motorcycle tour of Hanoi called "Backstreet Tours". While we did visit the Hanoi Opera House (designed by Mr. Eifel), the tour was primarily focused on the "background" of Hanoi life and the people who actually live there.


I also had no idea about these photo shoots when I signed up

A small farm in the middle of Hanoi. The contrast is really visible in this photo




As the water is public but the land is private, some migrant workers build small floating houses on the river. There is no running water or electicity.

This bridge is a famous landmark in Hanoi because of its history: the Americans tried to bomb it several times during the war but missed because it is so narrow.

These streets remind me so much of Thailand

It turns out that anything made with this kind of rice paper is "pho", including spring rolls

Thick deep-fried noodles - also pho

A delicious streetsnack

All the electrical lines hung haphazardly over the streetlight

"Bia Hoi" is Vietnamese beer that must be made fresh every day.

A popular Vietnamese pipe

Vegetables at a busy market.

The next day, I hopped on a bus to Ha Long Bay. Halfway there, we ended up in the middle of a giant traffic jam. We tried to drive down a side road, but it was only one lane and soon we created our own smaller traffic jam. Meanwhile, our guide stood up to talk about the rice fields we were stuck beside. Several hours later, we were back  on the road and way behind schedule.

When we got to Halong Bay, however, it was stunning.

At one point, we had the option of kayaking or paddle boating. I chose the kayak

Ha Long Bay is beautiful

And fellow travellers who offer to take photos of you are great

So long, Vietnam

Packing up and leaving the next day, it was easy enough finding the plane this time. On the flight home, I had an overnight layover in a Chinese airport.


 Who needs a hostel when airport seats work just fine? 
Back in Shanghai, classes have officially started again and the term is underway. Next post coming up: Funky Foods of Shanghai