Summiting the Bishorn: A Brief Foray into Mountaineering

This is a recap of the time I convinced Doms (aka my Adopted Swiss Uncle) to take me mountaineering up the Bishorn, a 4000m peak in the shadow of the much-loftier Weisshorn. This 2-day trek was my first foray into mountaineering.

Summiting my first 4000m peak!

Cool background fact of this mountain: it has two peaks, one just 20m higher than the other. In May 1884, a woman was the first to summit the mountain to the lower peak. Just three months later, in August 1884, a man summited the peak 20m higher, thereby making him "the first to summit." Apparently it took three months for men to decide that, no, women should not be the first to summit a mountain.

For the entire week leading up to the endeavor, my adopted Swiss uncle becomes my nagging adopted Swiss father. He drafts and re-drafts lists of essential equipment vs. optional, vetoes my hiking leggings so I buy mountain pants from Decathlon, runs over the plan + map multiple times, and repeatedly tells me to go to bed early in preparation. Ironically, despite the planning, we don't actually reserve the cabin in time. Both Friday and Saturday nights are fully booked, so we book Sunday night and I take the following Monday off from work.

Saturday night (the night before), he spends the night at his sister's house and I'll meet him in the morning. He looks up the exact train I need to take the following morning and write it down beside the packing list he leaves for me:

The detailed packing list and train time, prepared by my doting Adopted Swiss Uncle 

I was pretty excited to be carrying along an axe.

A final goodnight text from Doms, my well-prepared Adopted Swiss Uncle

SUNDAY: Zinal to Cabane de Tracuit.

Sunday morning, I catch the 9h13 train to meet Doms in Sierre, before hopping on the bus to Zinal, our starting point. 

Arriving in Zinal, it takes a few minutes to find the right path heading up toward the cabin but once on it, we set off. We hike together for an hour or so before accepting the long-established fact that my Adopted Swiss Uncle has very long legs and is very in-shape, so he will just be forever ahead of me. Trudging on alone, I have faith that he will wait if the trail ever becomes confusing (he usually does).

Once the cabin is in view, he stops waiting altogether. Fair enough; there's no more risk of getting lost.

I arrive at the Cabane de Tracuit nearly an hour after Doms. He's already checked in and shows me where the sleeping room is to dump our stuff. For those unfamiliar with Swiss "cabanes," they are essentially hostels built way up in the mountains. Everyone eats together and sleeps in the same room; you just have to bring your own sheets.

At the cabin. The back of Doms' spoon is pointing to our location.

MONDAY: Cabane de Tracuit to the Bishorn summit! (And also back down to Zinal)

At 5am, there is shuffling around the entire sleeping room of the cabin as people begin to wake up. Almost everyone will be making this same trek up the glacier. Downstairs, everyone is helping themselves to the breakfast offered by the cabin: bread, cheese, sandwich meat, fruit, muesli, milk, and yogurt. There is also a small coffee bar.

Before crossing the glacier, everyone attaches a pair of crampons, picks that dig into the ice so as not to slip, to the bottom of their boots. Most mountaineering boots nowadays have a small ledge on the heel to attach the crampons to. As mine were ordinary hikers with no heel ledge, I ended up having to use Doms' father's ancient crampons made before heel ledges were common. We get a few chuckles while putting them on.

Figuring out which crampons will work for my weebly non-mountain boots

Both wearing harnesses, Doms and I are attached by a rope. This is in case one of us falls in a crevasse, the other can stop the fall.

Crossing the glacier. Doms is on the rope ahead of me.

As we are only two people (typically you want at least three), we have to keep the rope quite long and taught between us, just in case of us falls in.

Weaving between these crevasses dropping hundreds of metres into icy nothingness.

Tightening the rope. You can see the crevasses behind him.

There are quite a few moments where Doms stops either to adjust something on the rope (usually tightening it) or wait for the group ahead of us to move a little further on. When that happens, I have the chance to slip out my phone to take a photo.

5am view from the glacier!

The final 200m or so is a significantly steeper section than anywhere else, and also where the altitude finally hits. While the weight of the equipment and physical labour seemed easily manageable at the start of the hike, it's now extremely difficult when even the act of breathing feels like it's making me sick. The last 25-50m, I'm completely nauseous. With pretty much zero high-altitude hiking experience, every step feels like I'm going to puke myself to death before reaching anywhere near the peak. When Doms tells me to 'just go slowly', at whatever pace I can muster, my footsteps become barely footsteps at all, each foot just barely pushing further than the last. (Later, Doms told me this was the point he was most worried I wouldn't make it).

We finally make it to the top before lunch.

We made it to the top!